HOW TO USE YOUR PLEATER - VIDEO LINK:
http://www.everythingsewing.net/videohowto2.htm
Nonie Hoffman of "Everything Sewing" shows you how...
Thanks Nonie!
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PLEATER 101 - HOW TO USE YOUR PLEATER
Take care when removing the pleater from its box - you don't want to bend any needles
Read any and all instructions and check out the above video link BEFORE you attempt to use your pleater.
Needle replacement is a challenge the first time, unless you take note of how the needles are installed. Below are pictures to help you understand how the needles go into the pleater. Study the pictures BEFORE removing the needles from the pleater.
When removing needles from pleater, place a book underneath the front of the pleater base. This lifts the front and keeps gravity from pulling all the needles downwards and falling out - making you nuts.
Remove all needles NOT needed for your particular smocking project. Example: If your design plate calls for 10 rows of smocking, then install 12 needles (2 are holding rows). The remaining needles should go into a small plastic medicine bottle or little metal tin for safekeeping.
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Remove selvages from any fabric thicker than batiste! Selvages are tightly woven and can cause problems and break/bend needles.
Not all fabrics will go through the pleater. If you encounter difficulty getting the pleater to accept the fabric and the knob is hard to turn, stop - remove the roller and fabric. If you force the pleater to accept this fabric, the chances of breaking and/or bending needles is great. It's always best to try a test piece to insure its pleatability.
Using a dowel is a personal choice. I prefer to use one. It helps control your fabric and helps you keep the edge aligned correctly. You can purchase a dowel rod at any home improvement center or just cut down an old broom stick. Make sure it's smooth and straight.
Gently turn the knob when you first place the fabric edge in between the 2 rollers to begin the pleating process. If the fabric goes in slightly crooked, gently turn the knob back (this is before the fabric is threaded onto the needles).
NEVER TURN THE KNOB BACKWARDS ONCE THE FABRIC IS THREADED ONTO THE NEEDLES! THIS WILL MORE THAN LIKELY BREAK OR BEND NEEDLES AND COULD EVEN DAMAGE YOUR PLEATER!!
Once fabric enters rollers, continue to turn the knob slowly. Be sure to remove fabric as it builds up on the needles (every turn of the handle if you are using thicker fabric). Usually you will feel some slight resistance on the knob indicating that it's time to remove the fabric.
If hear crunching or popping STOP IMMEDIATELY. You have probably just broken or bent 1 or more needles. DO NOT CONTINUE TO PLEAT OR TURN THE KNOB. To do so will result in more needle breakage. If you look down at the needles, you will more than likely see 1 or more needles pointing in a direction they should not be. These will have to be thrown away.
What you need to do is remove the side pins, lift off the roller and remove everything - fabric, needles & thread - from the pleater. You're going to have to start over! This happens to everyone at one time or another. Remember to be patient :-)
Once you're removed all the needles from your fabric, lay them out on a flat surface and throw away any needles that are bent, broken or blunted.
Sometimes you'll have to remove the roller because your fabric has gone in crookedly. You'll want to do this because if you continue to pleat off grain or are creating tucks, etc., there will be a tendency to break needles. Keeping the fabric straight and on grain is very important!
It is customary to pleat using the left side of your pleater. The excess unpleated fabric will fall to the lefthand side. You need to keep this moving along as you pleat to prevent it bunching or twisting which could cause needle breakage.
Remember to remove fabric as it builds up on the needles. Always remove fabric with a downward motion. Never yank upwards since this could bend your needles. Your pleats will stay more even if they are kept drawn together and neat.
Finally, be patient with yourself. GO SLOWLY AND PLEAT CAREFULLY. I know you're in a hurry to get to the fun part (SMOCKING), but without careful pleating, you won't be happy with your finished garment.
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR SUPER AMANDA OWNERS:
"For the majority of pleating, only every 2nd needle is required. For specialty work when fabric tends to bubble, use needles in all spaces provided, BUT only to the width of pleating being done. For example: Add more needles to spaces starting from the left hand side and ONLY to the width of the pleating being done."
For more how-to books and materials click here!
HAVE FUN WITH YOUR NEW PLEATER!
